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Had my first surfing lesson/experience today in Atlantic Beach, FL.  I have to admit it’s been on my “bucket list” for quite some time.  I have always been enamored with the balance and athleticism surfers have.  I have also been envious for their lack of fear.  See, the one reason that always kept me out of the water, was my geatest fear; being attacked by a shark.  Now, being eaten by anything that is wild would not be much fun, but there’s something about not seeing what’s coming, or what’s lurking below, that always scares me to death.  In south Florida or in the Gulf of Mexico, God bless those people that are dealing with that disatrous oil spill, at least you can see “it” coming. 

But, today was different.  Maybe it was because I was out in the water with a handful of guys, some of which were expert surfers, and I didn’t want to appear weak.  Us male lions do not like to show any weakness, for we do not have any, except when we tick off our hot lioness mama.  Ha ha! Or maybe it was because of the thrill of “dropping in” on that first wave.  Could have been Mr. Motes who was out there with us the whole time and even showed us what it was lik to “rip” on a stand up paddle board.  Mr. Motes, as I respectfully call him, had this incredible “live life to the fullest” type of energy, probably from his 60 years of experience on this Earth.  That’s how I want to be when I grow up, active as all get out and living man, just pure living.

Yeah today was different.  I actually only thought of what could possibly be swimming beneath me only a couple of times.  It paled in comparison to the incredible euphoric feelng you get when you get up on the board and ride that wave into the shore.  Oh yeah, I’m hooked.  I got up on my third wave on this 10 foot six inch boat of a board.  After awhile, I wanted to try the lighter, less stable long board.  I was confident that I could handle the next challenge.  Well, let’s just say that thing was really bad ass and tough as shit.  The thing wore me out so bad that I had to come home and take a nap.  I couldn’t catch one wave with that beast.  Oh well, maybe next time.

I am really proud of myself today.  I overcame a fear and tried something new.  And now I’m hooked.  Can’t wait to see the look on my wife’s face when I tell her I have found a new hobby.  Hey at the very least it will give me an extra incentive to move over to the beach side of A1A one day, so when my friends or family come by and ask her where I’m at.  “He’s out surfing”.  Damn right, maybe till the day I die!

Don’t ever be afraid to try something out of your comfort zone.  You never know, you just may like it. 

Cheers everyone!  All the best.

Tommy Mac

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